Resultados da busca

.哦，是的，葡萄牙那美妙的葡萄酒行业！在这里，关于木材在酿酒中的使用，充满了令人着迷的震耳欲聋的沉默！在我作为侍酒师和葡萄酒爱好者的辉煌岁月里，我有幸体验到了对木屑、木片以及其他木材酿造奇迹的惊人缺乏信息。 尽管所有酒标上都自豪地印着“橡木桶”一词，但似乎这个神奇的词汇足以让我们相信自己正面对一款至尊佳酿。啊，多么美妙的时刻，如果在阅读技术资料或翻阅“专业”杂志时，我们能看到这样的描述： “这款酒带有美丽的橡木屑影响，赋予其一种人工丰富的风味。” 或者更进一步： “请准备好品味橡木片的崇高气息，它赋予这款酒一种虚假的精致个性。” 但等等，我们怎么能奢望这样的清晰与透明？毕竟，猜测每个橡木桶中隐藏的秘密才更有趣，不是吗？当然，我们每个人天生就具备区分不同工艺的能力——一款用橡木屑酿造的酒，另一款使用木片，再一款真正经历橡木桶陈酿的，甚至还有一款既发酵又陈酿于桶中的……啊，何等感官盛宴！ 让我们更进一步吧，我亲爱的葡萄酒鉴赏家们！当我们忙于揭开木材的秘密时，一些冒险者已经开始玩味水泥蛋、花岗岩容器以及超中性的水晶。是的，水晶——据说比任何材质都更能“尊重”葡萄酒。谁还需要清晰准确的信息呢？当我们可以被层出不穷的新潮流和趋势所“惊喜”！ 是时候醒来了，挑剔的消费者们！是时候要求关于木材酿造的完整透明信息了！是时候揭开橡木桶背后的隐藏真相，以及那些酿酒师们坚持保守的神秘技艺了。让我们夺回知情权，搞清楚自己喝的是橡木的真实风味、木屑的人工奇观，还是木片带来的精致幻觉！ 让我们成为变革的推动者！让我们要求详尽的技术资料、信息透明的酒标，以及一个以真相和诚信为核心的葡萄酒行业。让我们掀开笼罩在木材酿造上的神秘面纱，向世界证明，我们，作为消费者，理应知晓我们所钟爱的葡萄酒的真正本质！ 文本：Miguel Viana Vinhos

旧藤 啊，旧藤（Vinhas Velhas），或者简单地说 OV（VV），正如行家们所称的…… 我特别喜欢与种植这些葡萄藤的生产者和种植者讨论这个话题。然而，与普通大众的对话往往更加微妙；许多人在酒标上见过这个称谓，但也仅此而已——一瞥而过，毫无理解。有趣的是，仅仅这个名字就成了销售的磁石。市场营销敏锐地察觉到了它的吸引力，并将“旧藤”变成了印在酒标上的奖杯。 但真正的本质又如何呢？ 当欧洲基金鼓励用新种植园取代百年葡萄园时，我们亲手拔除了祖先——那些昔日的葡萄种植者——曾悉心培育的遗产。这些种植者——是的，他们是真正的葡萄农——亲手种植、呵护，并将他们的传承装瓶。在一个拥有250多种本土葡萄品种的国家，我们拆解了那些包含五十多种葡萄的丰富葡萄园，转而拥抱单一品种的种植模式，以生产简化的酒款，以及当然，那些以“爆炸性”品种酿造的单一品种酒。 讽刺的是？我们的曾祖父没有温控酒窖，因此他们需要的是能在采收后不久便可饮用的酒。而如今，我们却酿造出需要时间、技术和酿酒学干预才能变得适口的酒。过去，葡萄种植者在葡萄园中便决定了葡萄酒的风格；如今，实践却颠倒了过来——我们先种植，然后再像猜谜游戏一样，看最终能酿出什么。 昔日的种植者，以他们的智慧，在葡萄园里巧妙地混种了40%以上的白葡萄品种，剩下的则是红葡萄品种。从这场自然的炼金术中诞生了复杂、慷慨、即饮的葡萄酒，带有土地与时间的印记。而如今，即便是最优秀的酿酒师，也难以诠释那些尚未扎根于风土的现代葡萄园。 现在呢？在经历了无数错误之后，市场再次将目光投向旧藤。华丽的酒标占据主导，而真正的历史遗产却被遗忘在尘埃之中。今天许多标榜“旧藤”标识的葡萄酒，虽确实来自较老的葡萄园，却并未展现出真正的历史传承。有些酒，甚至根本不是原产地命名体系（DO）所承认的传统葡萄品种，而是因为市场需求而被种植。 那真正的旧藤呢？ 几乎被遗忘的古老葡萄园——这些仍然蕴藏着世界级潜力的小片土地——依然在坚守。然而，直到如今，当市场充斥着那些毫无依据却高喊“OLD”的混乱标签时，我们才开始思考立法问题。尽管如此，我们依然沉迷于创建“珍藏”“特级珍藏”这样的等级体系，而忽视了葡萄真正的来源。 而我呢？我愿意花时间深入了解每一个项目，品鉴、分析酒款，观察酿造过程。我清楚地知道，在众多“旧藤”之中，真正配得上这个名字的，寥寥无几。毕竟，如今的混酿是在酒庄里完成的，而过去的混酿，则早已在葡萄园里完成。这又如何解释呢？ 文：Miguel Viana Vinhos

酒窖中的葡萄酒陈年 瓶中陈年的话题充满魅力，经常引发葡萄酒行业的热烈讨论。选择适合长期储存的葡萄酒类型是一个挑战，我自己也曾犯过错误，导致不得不倒掉几升酒或将其降级为烹饪用途。经验告诉我，仅仅是口感愉悦或受到大众喜爱的葡萄酒，并不能保证它在岁月流转中良好进化。这主要是因为缺少某些至关重要的因素。 1. 酸度：葡萄酒的支柱 酸度在葡萄酒的长期保存中起着至关重要的作用。要深入理解这一点，首先需要分析葡萄果肉的组成，它占葡萄果串的 80-85%。糖分、酸类、矿物质和果胶类物质是果肉的主要成分。然而，气候变化正在影响这一平衡。 较高的平均气温和强烈的阳光会加速糖分的形成，而酸类等其他化合物的发育则相对滞后。这往往导致收成失衡——潜在酒精度足够，但酸度却受到影响。相反，气温较低、平均温度和最低温度都较低的地区，则有助于葡萄更均衡地成熟，使所有成分之间达到和谐的关系。 当我们比较同一葡萄品种在不同产区的表现时，比如蒙桑（Monção）与塞图巴尔半岛（Península de Setúbal）的阿尔瓦利尼奥（Alvarinho），或不同地区的苏撒翁（Sousão），我们会发现它们的陈年方式存在差异。其中，天生酸度较高的品种，如阿林图（Arinto），在陈年能力上尤为突出。 此外，苹果酸乳酸发酵（malolactic fermentation）也会影响葡萄酒的酸度水平。该过程将苹果酸转化为乳酸，从而降低总酸度并提高 pH 值。尽管此过程可以使葡萄酒口感更加柔和，但仍需确保酸度足够，以避免葡萄酒失去活力，变得平淡无奇，从而丧失陈年潜力。 2. 过滤：纯净度与陈年演变的平衡 过滤是影响瓶中葡萄酒演变的重要步骤。目前，许多酒庄使用由纤维素和硅藻土制成的过滤板，其过滤程度可分为粗滤、澄清过滤和无菌过滤。 以波特酒（Port wines）为例，我们可以看到，不经过深度过滤的年份波特酒（Vintage Ports）在瓶中具有极大的陈年潜力。相反，茶色波特酒（Tawny Ports）由于长期在橡木桶中熟成，并经历了更为严格的过滤处理，其本质在瓶中保持稳定，但转化的潜力较低。 对于具有瓶中陈年潜力的葡萄酒，较为温和的过滤方式更为理想，这样可以保留一些微小的颗粒——如酵母和多酚——在酒液中。这些物质随着时间的推移会触发化学反应，增强葡萄酒的复杂性、密度及颜色稳定性，尤其是在红葡萄酒中表现尤为明显。 3. 瓶塞与微氧化作用 瓶塞的选择对葡萄酒的陈年至关重要。天然软木塞仍然是最佳选择，因为它能够促进葡萄酒的渐进式微氧化，使其陈年过程更加和谐。其他替代品，如合成软木塞或旋盖，虽然具有消除TCA（2,4,6-三氯苯甲醚）污染风险等优势，但可能会由于环境过于惰性而阻碍葡萄酒的演化。 例如，红宝石风格的波特酒（Ruby-style Ports），如年份波特（Vintage）或晚装瓶年份波特（LBV），通常使用高质量的天然软木塞，以确保在水平存放时获得理想的陈年效果。相反，茶色波特酒（Tawny Ports）由于在瓶中几乎不会发生转化，因此使用较简单的软木塞，并垂直存放以保护瓶塞的完整性。 结论 葡萄酒在酒窖中的陈年能力受多种因素影响，从葡萄的初始成分到酿造工艺和瓶塞选择皆是关键。尽管现代酿酒技术可以修正某些不平衡，但过度“修饰”的葡萄酒往往不适合长时间陈年。 学会识别适合陈年的葡萄酒需要经验以及对技术和感官的深入理解。如果您希望投资于可陈年的葡萄酒，请信赖专业人士，并培养自己的分析能力，以确保每一瓶酒在未来都能带来难忘的体验。 文献来源：MiguelVianaVinhos.com

Ah, Touriga Nacional! That icon of Portuguese viticulture, celebrated as the rare gem of our wines, omnipresent in the speeches of winemakers, sommeliers, and bureaucrats who draft the industry's regulations. The ultimate indigenous grape variety, they say. Deeply rooted in our tradition, they insist. But there’s one small detail: in Trás-os-Montes, this so-called queen never had a throne. And how do I know this? Simple. After visiting producers who have lived with wine since childhood—people who inherited vineyards from their grandparents, grew up treading grapes in stone lagares, and always drank what the land provided without needing trends or external approvals—I noticed a pattern: in these old vineyards, where grape varieties intertwine like a living organism, Touriga Nacional simply doesn’t exist. Not a single vine. Curious, isn’t it? In these rugged lands of terraces and steep slopes, where every village had its own wine, made from a blend of red and white grapes growing side by side, Touriga Nacional was never part of the equation. And yet, if we look at modern regulations, there it is, imposed as if it had always been the backbone of Trás-os-Montes wines. But let’s look at the facts: Trás-os-Montes had a vineyard model that worked. Dense, mixed vineyards, where the diversity of grape varieties naturally ensured balance and longevity in the wine. Winemaking happened in the vineyard, not in the cellar. Then came the European funds, the incentives for replanting, the aligned and trained vineyards, standardized grape varieties. Suddenly, Touriga Nacional everywhere, as if it had always been like that. But why? Well, because it was convenient. Touriga Nacional is resistant, productive, and responds well to vineyard treatments. It produces structured, powerful wines with great aging potential. Perfect for the modern market, but far from the profile of the wines our ancestors made and drank. The old practice of mixing red and white grapes in the vineyard, which provided freshness and natural balance to Trás-os-Montes wines, was discarded as if it had been a mistake—when, in fact, it was their greatest strength. And the old winemakers, who have always made wine from their own vineyards, immediately notice the difference. With a knowing smile, they tell me these modern varieties “paint a lot.” And they do—loaded with tannins, rough in their youth, needing years to tame their fury. Unlike the Bastardos they always knew—grapes with softer tannins, which brought natural balance to the wine without making it an over-extracted bomb. They didn’t need to wait years for their wine to soften; their vineyards already provided the right harmony. And now, when a “Vinhas Velhas” wine includes Touriga Nacional in the blend, I have to ask: what old vineyards are we talking about? Historic vineyards, rooted in time and tradition? Or just old on paper, yet new in concept? Because these Tourigas that now appear so easily in today’s blends do not come from scattered century-old vines, nor from those ancient vineyards that carry generations of heritage. They are old vineyards, yes… but aged prematurely, planted in the rush of European subsidies, trained for mechanization, and shaped for a profile that was never truly ours. And in the middle of all this, where is the legislation protecting the true historical heritage of our vineyards? Where is the respect for what our ancestors built? That is the real question. But for those who truly want to taste real Vinhas Velhas, the path is different. Forget the labels and visit the villages—talk to the farmers who still have those vines, many of them centenary. There are still many, and some even make good wine—of course, without much enological control, made empirically, as it always was. And that’s where, sometimes, you can still find the true taste of the history we insist on forgetting. And for those who insist on having a label, choose wisely. Because even among the wines labeled “Vinhas Velhas,” the truly authentic ones are rare. Now, don’t get me wrong—I like Touriga Nacional. It’s a noble grape variety, expressive, and capable of producing remarkable wines. But I enjoy drinking a true Vinhas Velhas even more, one that carries the story of the vineyard in the bottle. And that’s what we need to understand: the differences in wine must reflect the differences in the vineyard. If we want authenticity, we must respect what the land has given us—not what we were told to plant... Text: Miguel Viana Vinhos

啊，这片土地！如今，这个词充斥着所有关于葡萄酒的对话，就像真实性的象征。每个人都赞美风土，但简单的表述却不能定义葡萄酒的特性。我们想一想，风土到底是什么？这一术语源自法国葡萄栽培学，涵盖土壤、气候、地形，以及最重要的人类影响。但这真的是我们在瓶中尝到的味道吗？ 土地，首先是男人的事。它是人类历史、社会和美食进化的成果。它源于我们祖先的食物、他们在没有科技或电力的时代忍受的气候和他们喝的酒。他们毫无后顾之忧地酿酒。他们保存肉类，以应季产品为生，他们的葡萄酒也随之演变。这些葡萄酒带有其环境的印记：树木和花卉的微生物，以及其栖息地的生物多样性。但奇怪的是，葡萄种植者在精心准备的营销演讲中常常忽略这一部分故事。 但我们必须明确的是：目前市场上的大多数葡萄酒的品质并没有体现出风土的特性。为什么？因为很多葡萄酒都有着几乎相同的特征。我们有多少次品尝过一款葡萄酒却无法辨别出它的产地特色？出现这种情况的原因是，许多葡萄酒不再是自然环境的产物，而是酿酒标准化的产物。接种商业酵母可保证温和且可预测的发酵，并具有安全和一致的香气。但问题就在这里：它酿造出的葡萄酒的味道极其相似。 以我自己的收藏为例：我酒窖中的大部分葡萄酒都是用本土酵母发酵的。这只是酿酒的第一步！但我们可以追溯得更远，追溯到葡萄藤本身。来自土壤的葡萄酒和来自真正风土的葡萄酒是有区别的。科学研究证实，即使种植在同一块土壤上，依赖人工灌溉和表面营养的葡萄园所产出的葡萄与经过几代人适应、依靠土地记忆的葡萄园所产出的葡萄也会有所不同。 当然，我们还有无数的创造性增强和调整。我们有完善的酿酒配方，可以保证葡萄酒的安全和美味。然而，在经历了这一切之后，我们又花了五到十分钟为风土而欣喜，最终获得了一种与来自完全不同地区的葡萄酒具有相同口味的葡萄酒。那么，谈论这些土地有什么意义呢？ 当葡萄酒真正反映出风土时，风土就是一个美丽的想法。不幸的是，很大一部分市场，事实上是绝大多数市场，并没有反映出这一点。然而，标签上却夸耀着葡萄园的海拔、花岗岩土壤和祖传的方法，好像这些就足以验证其真实性。问题？我们了解了风土的含义，但没有人告诉我们大多数葡萄酒并没有反映出风土。朋友们，这就是整个情况的讽刺之处。 文字：Miguel Viana Vinhos

As a experienced winelover and sommelier, I can attest to the uniqueness and quality of the wines produced by Bodega Fabio Coullet. The project is a result of Fabio Coullet's love for agronomy and oenology, and it showcases the personality of the Axarquia region of Malaga. The winery is located in the D.O.P Sierras de Málaga and produces wines in conjunction with the land, the native varieties, and the people who have protected this territory for generations. The utmost importance is given to sustainable and ecological viticulture, with minimal intervention in the winery, and a respect for the land and its fruits that begins in the vineyard and ends in the wines. The vineyards of Bodega Fabio Coullet are located in Axarquia, a unique place surrounded by steep mountains with slate soils in different states of decomposition and a sweet Mediterranean climate. The autochthonous varieties of the zone complete the circle, and among them is the almost extinct grape in Malaga, the Romé, of which there are only a little more than five hectares in Malaga and in the world. Ingénito is a 100% Garnacha from Axarquia, with a fresh and Mediterranean taste. The grapes are harvested at the maximum point of expression of their terroir, and the wine is aged in French oak barrels for at least four months before bottling. This wine is delicate, fine, mineral, and has aromas of cherry, strawberry, violet notes, resinous herbs, and Mediterranean pines. It is a harmonious and very fresh wine, ideal to accompany tuna, hearty fish, paellas, rice of rabbit and birds, pastas, white meats, Iberian meats, grills, sausages, and cheeses. Villazo is a 100% Moscatel of Alejandría, which comes from a goblet-grown, dry-farmed vineyard. This wine shows the refinement of the Muscat grape from the plot known as “Villazo”. The grapes are harvested by hand in 11 kg boxes to preserve the integrity of the berry, and the wine is aged in new French oak barrels for at least four months before bottling. Villazo is a wine with a mineral style and hints of fresh rose. In the mouth, we find vineyard peach, aromas of tea, and a subtle aroma of coconut, with small nuances. It is a perfect match for seafood, fish, sushi, and desserts. Fabio Coullet's wines from Málaga have a distinct and wonderful salt note that is truly remarkable. The saltiness is subtle but adds a beautiful depth to the wine, balancing out its fruity and floral notes. The salt note is a result of the unique terroir of Málaga, where the vineyards are situated close to the Mediterranean Sea. The sea breeze carries salt particles inland, which settle on the grapes and affect their flavor. This saltiness is particularly prominent in Fabio Coullet's wines, which are made with great care and attention to detail. When tasting these wines, you will notice a delightful salinity on the tongue, which perfectly complements the wine's other flavors. The salt note lingers on the palate, leaving a refreshing finish. In the world of wine, a salt note is a highly sought-after characteristic that can indicate a wine of exceptional quality. By noting this unique feature of Fabio Coullet's wines, you will impress even the most experienced sommeliers and show that you have a deep understanding of the intricacies of wine tasting. In summary, Bodega Fabio Coullet produces wines that are full of nuances due to the orography of the land, the different exposures of the plots, and the warm and sweet climate that prevails in the region. The heroic viticulture and the autochthonous varieties are the raison d’être of the winery, and the identity of their wines is drawn through three inseparable elements - the people, the terroir, and the grape. Bodega Fabio Coullet's wines are a testament to the unique personality and quality of the Axarquia region of Malaga.