The wine Cuenta Viñas is undoubtedly the most Atlantic Continental white I have ever tasted, accompanied by sophisticated reds that never lose their identity. My first experience with Eduardo Eguren's wines was in May 2022 during the La Premier 2021 tasting in Bierzo, where Cuenta Viñas was one of the guest wineries. This moment alone was enough to spark my desire to write about his wines, but I preferred to wait, buy, and explore more of his creations. Now, with the addition of a white wine to the portfolio, I felt curious to see his work in this category, and once again, I was pleasantly surprised. But we will get to that soon.
It all began with a visit to Valtuille, where the 2021 vintage tasting took place. I was there to try wines from different wineries across various Spanish regions, and I couldn't miss this opportunity. I admit I went with little expectation, and although I spoke with some producers, I only exchanged a few words with Eduardo. Now, however, I will have the chance to visit him in Rioja at his invitation, which made me very happy.
That day, I tried several wines and remember talking to other producers who impressed me. At Eduardo's stand, there were two standout wines: Alomado 2020 and Yelsones 2019. I liked the Alomado, a sophisticated Tempranillo that balances rusticity and harmony, showing density, pronounced fruit, and well-integrated oak. This wine boasts well-balanced acidity, body, and fruit profile, with an extra finesse that goes beyond the classic style of the region. However, it was the Yelsones 2019 that completely captivated me. This wine confirmed the characteristics of the Alomado but with superior finesse, a broader palate, and a more direct expression of the grape variety. Yet, it maintained complexity, freshness, and density, with remarkable aging potential.
Both wines are ideal for aging, although they already offer excellent tasting experiences from their market release. They maintain the terroir's identity, showcasing the region's character with a distinctive style, diverging from the typical profile of younger, more explosive Rioja wines. Eduardo Eguren, as a vigneron, values the fruit and achieves a unique harmony between the wine's tannins and the ellagic elements of the oak, creating an authentic profile.
This style is the result of a careful interpretation of a 1970 vineyard located in a high-altitude region with southeast exposure, on colluvial sedimentation soil rich in calcium carbonate blocks (Yesones). This composition imparts freshness and balance to the vineyard, situated at 700 meters of altitude and characterized by moraines and limestone blocks.
Recently, Eduardo released a white called Arriscado 2022, sourced from a remarkable 1966 vineyard with northern exposure, situated on an undulating plain marked by colluvial sedimentation composed of 55% limestone and Yesones. This blend of Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo, and Viura is one of the white wines that best reflects the region's Atlantic continental profile. It presents a unique nose, with fresh notes of green apple and citrus, complemented by hints of honey. On the palate, it is vibrant, with striking acidity and an explosion of lime, making it a gastronomic and versatile wine that promises to age well in the bottle.
I must admit that if I were a producer, I would want to be a vigneron, as every decision, from vine interpretation to bottling, imparts a unique identity to the wine. I recommend this producer to all wine lovers and propose a toast to the vignerons who bottle small parcels of terroir filled with history.
Text: Miguel Viana Vinhos
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