Aging Wines in the Cellar
Aging wines in bottles is a fascinating topic and often sparks debates in the wine industry. Selecting the ideal wine profile for cellaring is frequently a challenge, and I have personally made mistakes that led me to discard several liters of wine or relegate them to culinary use. Experience has taught me that a wine being pleasant to taste or widely appreciated by the public is not enough to guarantee good evolution over the years. This is primarily due to the absence of certain essential factors.
1. Acidity: The Backbone
Acidity plays a crucial role in the longevity of wine. To understand this better, it is important to analyze the composition of grape pulp, which accounts for about 80-85% of the grape cluster. Sugars, acids, minerals, and pectic substances form the main components of the pulp. However, climate change has been impacting this balance.
Higher average temperatures and intense sunlight accelerate sugar formation, while other compounds, such as acids, lag behind in their development. This often results in unbalanced harvests where the potential alcohol level is adequate, but acidity levels are compromised. Conversely, cooler regions with lower average and minimum temperatures promote a more balanced ripening process, leading to a harmonious relationship among all components.
When comparing wines of the same variety from different regions, such as Alvarinho from Monção versus the Península de Setúbal, or Sousão from distinct areas, we observe different aging behaviors. Naturally acidic varieties, such as Arinto, stand out for their longevity.
Additionally, malolactic fermentation can influence acidity levels. This process converts malic acid into lactic acid, reducing total acidity and increasing the pH. While this process can make wine more pleasant to taste, it is essential to ensure acidity levels remain sufficient to prevent the wine from becoming "flat" and lacking aging potential.
2. Filtration: Balancing Purity and Evolution
Filtration is a step that can significantly impact wine evolution in the bottle. Today, many wineries use filter plates made of cellulose and diatomaceous earth, which vary between coarse, clarifying, and sterilizing filtration.
Looking at the example of Port wines, we see that Vintage Ports, lightly filtered before bottling, have great potential for evolution in the bottle. On the other hand, Tawny Ports, which age for long periods in barrels and undergo more intensive filtration, maintain their essence stable with less capacity for transformation in the bottle.
For wines with growth potential in the bottle, gentler filtration is preferable, allowing tiny particles – such as yeast and polyphenols – to remain in the wine. These substances trigger chemical reactions over time, enhancing complexity, density, and color stability, particularly in red wines.
3. Closure and Micro-oxygenation
The choice of closure is critical for wine aging. Natural cork remains the best option due to its ability to promote gradual and harmonious micro-oxygenation. Alternatives, such as synthetic corks or screw caps, offer advantages – like eliminating the risk of TCA contamination ("cork taint") – but may hinder wine evolution by creating overly inert conditions.
For example, Ruby-style Ports, such as Vintage or LBV, typically use high-quality natural corks to ensure proper aging in a horizontal position. Conversely, Tawny Ports, intended for minimal transformation in the bottle, use simpler corks and are stored vertically to preserve the closure.
Conclusion
The ability of a wine to age in the cellar depends on numerous factors, from the grape's initial composition to winemaking methods and closure choice. While enological products can correct imbalances, overly "made-up" wines tend not to age well.
Learning to identify wines with cellaring potential requires experience and in-depth knowledge, both technical and sensory. If you are investing in wines for aging, trust professionals and develop your analytical skills so that each bottle represents a memorable experience in the future.
Text: MiguelVianaVinhos.com
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